Spinach soil blocks

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Planted with soil block on 2/12 and placed in the garden on 3/8. This spinach is ready to go in a little over 3 weeks from start to planting. If you haven’t learned about soil blocking-you should check into it. No fancy soil needed, no replacing the ever cracking 6-cell  plastic containers, transplant shock minimized, and little work to do indoors. 

Soil blocking can be one of the strategies used for an extra early spring garden provided you’ve got some kind of protection from the elements. It doesn’t have to be fancy either. Four pieces of rebar, some sturdy PVC, and 4-6 mil UV protected plastic can give you all that’s needed.

If you’d like to learn how to soil block and to also have a really early spring garden, you can follow my class schedule here on this site. Classes are held at public locations but also in a very comfortable environment at my home. Space is always limited and I never have enough room for everyone who wants to attend, but I try my best. I’ll  even teach you how to do it on a budget so you don’t have to buy the fancy soil block unit that will cost you about $50-60. 

For those who might be interested in learning how to be a square foot gardener, my class on that is Saturday, April 20th at my home. I’ve only got 3 more seats available. Imagine, a garden where you don’t have to weed or thin. A garden that gives you 100% of the harvest in only 20% of the space. No hard work. No heavy digging. No need to root-till. It’s the way to go. Details can be found on this home page. 

Winter sowing and time to transplant

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I’ve written in the past of winter sowing-a method of planting that requires no fancy lighting, no hardening off, and really no work to speak of. There is little care to worry about other than making sure things under the container don’t dry out.  

This is simply a plastic milk container that’s been cleaned out and then filled with moistened potting mix. You then seed heavily, tape the container shut and then put it outside in the sunniest location you have. Remove the cap-you won’t be needing it. This serves as your venting  so things don’t heat up too much. The cold doesn’t matter for lettuces. They know when it’s time to come up,. 

We had two pretty heavy snowfalls this year when I went out and couldn’t even see the container. It was totally covered in snow. I sowed this on Jan 15 and it was ready to be separated and planted on Feb 24th. This small container was enough to seed 2 full squares of lettuce. Thats 8 “bunches” of lettuce, not 8 individual heads. These come up in big mounds. You can see what it will eventually look like from a picture I posted last  year. Big, billowy lettuces ready for you to harvest, clean, and eat. 

Five and a half weeks later. And, you did no work. 🙂

 

The garden diary

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I love the idea of keeping track of what happens in the garden during the year. I looked at my sun box today and tried to remember what and when I planted. Besides the accuracy when doing this, it’s also good to remember challenges and success from the previous year, crop rotation, and any other things you might have learned. 

This is a box planted on 11/27 of last year. I love growing lettuces because I try to have a salad every night of the growing season. Even in winter, although those greens are very different. This will be ready in about two and half to three weeks from now. I’ve got another box which was planted later which will be harvested shortly after this box has been exhausted. 

By the time both of these boxes are done, my raised beds will take over for the rest of the season with salad greens and all the other crops I love to grow. The boxes will be put away until early fall, and the space taken up by them will be planted in perfect time for my summer items. 

This will give you the earliest garden

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It’s called winter sowing. Save a plastic container like the one in the picture. I poke 9 holes in the top and 9 in the bottom. I do that by heating up the tip of a Phillips head screwdriver over the gas flame on the stove. Then push it through the plastic. Easy. Mark the top of the container with whatever you plan to grow. This one is half rosemary and thyme. 

Moisten soil with warm water and fill container to the top. Now add your seeds. Lots of them. Thinly cover with more soil and close the top. Then leave the container outside in your sunniest location. Do no work. Check container on occasion to make sure it doesn’t dry out. 

In 2 months you will have a container stock full of whatever you planted. You can now start dividing up the starts and putting them in your garden. 

Seeds know when to come up. The beauty with this method is there’s no work until it’s time to start breaking them up to plant and also no need to harden off. The seedlings have already come through harsh weather and are used to the elements. For those who start seeds inside  (and I do), you know the extra work of  hardening off, which takes a week or more depending on weather. 

Prepping your square foot garden for winter and….

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Setting you up for major success in the next growing season. While my work for making compost is done for the year-at least the active part-there’s one last item that I’ve done for years to continue improving the tilth of the soil. 

If you live in an area where there’s freezing temperatures but can still work your soil it’s not too late. I remove 4-5 inches of soil, add a layer of fall leaves, and then put the soil back on top. When you come back in the spring to plant, you most likely won’t be able to find any leaves. The earthworms have been doing their job all winter long. 

This is a great way to continue improving your growing medium with a free and natural resource. Don’t throw those leaves away! Save and use as many as you can and then use the remainder next year to make the best compost around.

If you’d like to learn more about how to make that compost, you can find the recorded class available on this site under the “shop” section. You won’t be sorry. When you learn how to do it you’ll never need to buy another fertilizer again. Ever.